Week of 20240908 - Ghana Week 26: Confirmation; New Duties; Night Riding; 100th Birthday; Yamoransa; Mankessim; Coffins; Cape Coast Castle

Week of 20240908 - Ghana Week 26: Confirmation;  New Duties; Night Riding; 100th Birthday; Yamoransa; Mankessim; Coffins; Cape Coast Castle 

= Sunday, a young woman had been baptized last week but had not been confirmed; I was asked to be the voice for the ordinance. Each of us placed a hand on her head. Then using the authority I have received from Christ through laying on of hands in unbroken succession, I confirmed her a member of the church, gently commanded her to receive the Holy Ghost, and gave her a blessing.
= We found a "road" that let us park the truck above the church and walk down a short way instead of leaving the truck near the street. To orient the new Area doctor to conditions here, we took photos of places where missionaries can buy medicine.
= At https://keyman.com/keyboards/ghanakeyboards#expand-languages I finally found a useful Twi keyboard for the laptop. And, I signed up for a Twi course through LearnAkan.
= We looked at our Patriarchal Blessings and shared brief quotes from them with each other, seeing how some of the things mentioned there have come to pass.

= Monday, we learned how shouldering the Barilleaus' duties will shake out when they leave in October: I'll do what Elder Barilleau does, and Sister Morgan will do what Sister Barilleau does. Steph will continue to be medical coordinator.
= President Morgan agreed to let me stop converting bicycles from multi-gear to single-gear, a practice of my predecessor to reduce repair issues. Bent pedals showed that missionaries were using all their force to get up hills when a single-gear bicycle was used.
= Steph arranged for care and paid the bill for missionaries at Oak Tree Medical Services; we fed them at KFC and they headed to their apartment. Then about 8 PM, they called to tell us that one of them had money stolen out of his bag and during the theft, his companion's medicine was stolen, medicine that has to be taken every 12 hours. We drove there in the dark through roads we might not have braved in daylight.
= Still on the road at 10 PM, we listened to President Nelson's 100th birthday celebration through Steph's phone and watched it that way when we got home. A noted heart surgeon until he was called to serve the church, as the senior apostle, he was set apart and sustained as the Prophet and President of the church in 2018 after the death of the previous prophet. 36 years ago, he visited our little branch in Turkey.

= Tuesday, Steph wasn't feeling good. So, I went to the office by myself, shadowed some of the Barilleaus' activities, and focused on overseeing bicycle repair. I went to the post office with the Barilleaus, and I was introduced to the people whom they receive packages through: one person for items for which duty has been paid and one for items on which duties are owed.

= Wednesday, we learned that our neighbors in the States are having to put up with dogs barking night and day from our tenants; I contacted the management company. Steph and I drove to Yamoransa to inspect an apartment. More financial training. Medicine pickup from the Cape Coast Pharmacy (tricky to reach and park near). [This was 9/11; no terrorists chose to commemorate that date today.]

= Thursday, we delivered medication to Elders beyond Mankessim. At Melcom (variety store) in Mankessim, we met Muslims in seven-year training to become missionaries. They knew a little about our church. We learned from them. It was a positive encounter. At the office, we showed the Barilleaus photos of coffins we had seen while driving from Mankessim; Google "Ghana coffins" to see some unusual creations.

= Friday (the thirteenth), we went to Cape Coast Beach Restaurant with the Barilleaus and then to Cape Coast Castle, one of the gateways for slave trafficking.
= The dungeons were soul-crushing. Thousands of human beings were rounded up; sold to the companies that would transport them; sorted, the weakest killed and thrown into the sea; and the rest shackled, branded with a company identifier, and forced into areas about the size of our living room. They stayed there for months, sitting on their own excrement and each other (and for ladies in separate quarters, in their menstrual blood), shackled to someone else, waiting for the next ships to arrive for transport.
= Churches justified this by saying that Africans had no soul. When missionaries arrived, they did nothing to restrain this activity. A church sat above the dungeons here and in other trafficking places; the smell of those incarcerated below would have been obvious.
= Before Europeans stepped in, when one tribe conquered another, it took that other tribe’s people, but those people kept their identity and culture. To support the kind of trafficking that took place here, outside countries selling arms to tribes fed the need for arms to fight other tribes: the price for the arms was human lives. Agents in Ghana and elsewhere rounded up human beings and marched them here for exploitation and exportation.

= Saturday, we stayed home. I blogged and did laundry. We prepared for the possibility that we might be asked to teach at church tomorrow.

To church








This is an outdoor stove.




Our building is straight ahead.








After church, we continued up the hill and looked for a way to drive down.







This will do.








Main road








Back to our truck








A licensed medicine seller (closed today) near where the missionaries live who support this area.







The turn to go up the hill; we're testing it out.








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Yes, mud-and-stick construction, OK if you have a metal roof.






Looking for a place to park








A tiny store on a path that can't be driven to the highway.







A licensed medicine seller, about fifteen minutes by truck from where we meet. We took these photos for the benefit of the Area Doctor, who serves from a big city (Accra).











Graves by the highway





A pharmacy about 20 minutes by truck. (Of course, they don't have a truck; so, you have to factor in waiting for a tro to ride in.





"It's all good Mum"







Clap for Jesus.






Sweet Mother.






Pass


Rinsed, reheated, sauced noodles from Chickenman (still spicy)







Cattle by the market





Bent bicycle pedal








KFC with mayonnaise






8:32 PM. We're on the road to purchase and deliver medicine.







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Return trip







President Nelson and his wife, enjoying the celebration of his 100th birthday.







Some of his children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren







He spoke (pre-recorded)








And the balloons came down








In a cargo container behind the mission office








This corner was shrouded in metal when we arrived in March. This week, the metal was removed and this statue was revealed of Nana Kwodwo Mbra V: the immediate past Omanhene (supreme traditional ruler) of Cape Coast. The Brits have kings and queens; the Omanhene serves a similar but possibly more influential function for regions or towns. This statue is a first for Cape Coast of such a ruler.



An approach to Cape Coast Castle













I can't make out the orange text, but the white text below says Only God Can Save Me.











The bird is back, pecking the reflection.













We inspected an apartment in Yamoransa.













I let him in; he turned off the road not long afterward.








This is the first classic vehicle service building I've seen. (This one uses a ramp instead of a hydraulic lift.)








Junction Restaurant Lounge. I think this is the sign for where I had great spaghetti a couple of weeks ago.








Water being offloaded into a wheelbarrow to be sold somewhere else.









Busy









Ribes [nail salon] has the motto "Nailed it".














Taxi drivers are very understanding about oddly sized cargo. Notice also the footwear being transported by cart.







Man! Know Thyself.










Plantain inspector (in our compound)













Ramen.










Fishing vessels








Fish (large)













Disposable diapers













We don't understand it, but it got our attention.













Cooperative driving












The taxi is not parked







It just didn't want to deal with construction.







Paint your building if you let us advertise on it.






'Saiko' is the word used by fishers to describe the illegal transfer of fish between boats. As the commercial species dwindled from overfishing, trawlers began to intentionally target the smaller fish on which local canoe fishers had traditionally depended and sell it back to fishing communities for profit. The irony of saiko is that purposely-built wooden canoes go to sea without any fishing gear (nets, etc.) or refrigeration, but return to shore with hundreds of slabs of well frozen fish. With such skewed competition from non-Ghanaian beneficiary owners for small pelagic fish - against the artisanal fleet which is fully Ghanaian owned - saiko proves to be ominous against the prospect of rejuvenating the declining small-pelagic fish stocks in Ghanaian waters, and also limiting Ghanaian participation in industrial fishing. The landing of such immature small pelagic fish ultimately deprive the artisanal canoe fishers the opportunity of catching these fishes when they mature: the main target of that industry. It can therefore be said that the industrial trawlers are in strong competition with the artisanal canoe fleet despite the fact that the trawlers may be fishing outside the 30m-deep Inshore Exclusive Zone (IEZ). Moreover, such substantial catch of small-pelagic fish is unreported and does not feature in marine fishery statistics. Trawler vessels, therefore, could be said to be reporting only about a quarter to a third of the actual catch and therefore committing infractions regarding non-reporting of catch. -- https://fcwc-fish.org/our-news/ghana-saiko-is-sacrilege

Football







Yɛ no yie na didi ho {do it well and eat it}














Part of a graveyard













Almighty












Two licensed medicine sellers next door to each other













Kushea had better be the greatest if it's work driving 116km on available roads.











We conclude that only Europeans will pay for fitness.












Ɔboy bɛyɛ {Boy will do it}









If you build it, they will come. (This is a game played on a high-quality football pitch.)










Nyame Adom Ara Kwa {Just God's Grace}












By His Grace








Let's secure this before we get moving.







Using cutlasses (machetes) to mow their football pitch.







Water delivery; it's often a scarce commodity.













Etanfo Nyɛ Nyame {Enemy Is Not God}












Some drivers dare to squeeze past the water tanker. (We waited until a wide spot.)








Nyame Yɛ Kɛsɛ {God Is Great}












God's Time Ventures









Self-contained store














A Latter-day Saint congregation meets in this unmarked building on the second floor.












Missionaries consulting with Sister Ladner.










Traveling stores













More graves; the dust from the road has blown across them.













This is fascinating: shapes on the second floor that look like teeth.







A bit dusty














Caskets under construction and on display














Water towers here are truncated cubes instead of spherical.








The plant laid in the road is your cue that a vehicle is disabled ahead.








Adom {Grace} Casket Home. Lumber, caskets being built, and caskets to show.








 A closer look














Casket showroom







If they can load it, they'll carry it.













A nice gift to this village in memory of someone - "Welcome to Badukrom Kokwaado: The city set upon the hill."













Busy people all around; look closely.








Last mile transport








Peace and Joy Ambulance Service














A fancy apartment complex













Game still in progress













Cooperative driving








Kristo Nti {For Christ's Sake}














This casket looks like a 'tro.




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Trying to see fishing boats from the main road.









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Unsure what they're making, but at least they brought tablecloths.









This casket is fit for royalty.











One Step


(showing that supplies to make more are ready to use)








Yɛhowa Nye Me Hwɛeo {The Lord is with me} Wood Shop















Dze A Nyame Tum Yɛ {The Power of God}









Fishing boats













Planning tomorrow's adventure, since the office will be closed tomorrow for painting.












I'll never be hungry again! -- an homage to a line in the movie Gone with the Wind.












There's more, but I'll stop here.













In Him Is Life














God is my Savior.
Music is a sound of life.
Alpha and Omega God.
Ɔye Adom {He is a Grace}.




View through the windows of Cape Coast Restaurant









To the right

















Ceiling














And an internal wall














From the restaurant to the castle





Before











Mid-meal; I pulled the bones away before seriously digging in.













The Barileaus sharing a soda; Sister Barilleau caught me taking the photo.










We saw Mrs Evans working near this sign.














The view looking left from behind the castle.










Entrance














Cannon shot














Not exactly sitting ducks














Looking back from the sea wall














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Some panoramas





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A model of the castle. The right (east) courtyard is raised; the left courtyard (west) is at ground level.
















Photos of descriptions of the construction history were unclear; so, they have been transcribed below.

Cape Coast Castle as it exists today was built over a period of 300 years. Its early history is obscure; the first structure on the site was a timber trading lodge built by the Swedes in 1654, in a land then known as the Gold Coast. This lodge was soon replaced by a fort built in stone, which changed hands several times before 1664, when it was finally captured by the English.

Its subsequent metamorphosis into a castle as the headquarters of the Royal African Company - its transformation through extensive alteration, demolition, reconstruction, and addition over the following 300 years and for its use for wide variety of purposes - is the subject of this exhibition.

You are invited to explore its fascinating history and discover how and why and when it took the shape and the form it has today. And when you walk around the castle, enter its dungeons, visit some of its many rooms, and climb to its bastions and battlements, let its walls speak to you of the splendor and the sorrow and the suffering and the shame of those who had lived and died here.

The late seventeenth century castle, though impressive to look at, had not been well-built and was proving very difficult to keep sound and watertight. Mud had been used instead of lime for mortar, and the walls were barely strong enough to withstand bombardment from the sea.

At this time, the Western Spur was rebuilt, enlarged and strengthened, and the outer wall and raised platform on the seaward side of the main courtyard was also strengthened. Below this platform, an underground dungeon was formed to increase the capacity for slave confinement. By 1750, the castle could hold 1500 slaves. Cisterns under the main courtyard collected rainwater from the castle roofs and from the paved surface of the courtyard, and provided water for the use of slaves. (Europeans in the castle drew their water from ponds in the locality, outside the walls, which may account for the constant ill-health and high mortality recorded among the castle staff.)

Repairs and alterations were carried out periodically, when trade was good and funds were available for this purpose. But when in 1751, the Royal African Company was supplanted by the London Committee of Merchants, a major program of reconstruction and refortification was launched.

In 1756, the committee of merchants engaged the services of Justly Watson, an expert in fortification. He carried out a thorough inspection of the castle and drew up a reconstruction plan which took sixteen years to implement.

The main southern range of buildings were raised in height from two to three stories; the remains of the original Swedish fort, which projected into the main courtyard, were demolished, and the courtyard enlarged; and the Western Spur was again rebuilt and refortified with a row of vaulted rooms against the wall and cannons mounted on the flat roofs above.

To the east of the south bastion was the weakest part of the whole fortification, facing as it did, straight out to the sea. The entire south of the castle was demolished in 1768 and replaced by a huge fortified battery designed by an English officer, John Grossle; which contained, below the platform mounted with cannon, an enormous vaulted slave dungeon.

In 1770, Greenhill point, the east bastion, collapsed, and was rebuilt with a pair of bastions flanking a new sea gate, located for the loading and offloading of goods between the castle and the beach.

Governor Dalziel (1792-1798) added two floors to the Southern range of buildings, providing accommodation for the Governor, and created the tower known today as Dalziel tower.

Entrance to a dungeon














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The dungeon














Two holes far above, each about the size of two hands, provided the only light and air.












This area was left uncleaned and marked as a crime scene: a crime against humanity.













When years of human waste were removed to display the castle, this drain was revealed.












Light and air for the intake, branding, and export area












This was a passage to the ships. The Brits sealed this opening to symbolize the ending of trafficking in human beings.











It has become a shrine.













We get to come out the way we came in.














A ceiling viewing port to check on imprisoned humans below.













Elder Barilleau contemplating the end of the passage that was not sealed; it would have been a steep climb.












Women were imprisoned separately from men.














This too, is a shrine.














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Entrance to another dungeon






To the sea gate for goods.














The gate is sealed.














The door of no return.





Door of no return















From outside, the door has been labeled "Door of Return". Remains of some slaves have been retrieved from where they died, and in a symbolic gesture have been reburied in Ghana. Some ancestors of slaves have come here to symbolically return.








The ships to transport human beings waited here. A large portion of them did not survive the ocean journey. Those that did endured more unspeakable treatment.

Today, only a fishing port remains.


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Heading upstairs














The palaver was one-sided: companies bid on the lives of human beings here.













"We are the children of those who refused to die." The African Genesis Institute cited Genesis 15:13-14 - And he said unto Abram, Know of a surety that thy seed shall be a stranger in a land that is not theirs, and shall serve them; and they shall afflict them four hundred years; And also that nation, whom they shall serve, will I judge: and afterward shall they come out with great substance.











Communication Room. The small tower on a distant hill had watchers who would signal the sentry here with flags if troops were massing for attack.











This library was a church, with dungeons below.














In front of the church door, notice the boards over a ceiling hole to check on human cargo.













The library today













Fishing village





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Notice the boat that says Bullet 41.










Another boat bears the same name.




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Kids









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Elder Barilleau














For much of the castle, time has stopped.





But the west courtyard has shops today.














Alimacom Craft Centre takes Visa. It is likely (from the behavior we saw) that many of the shops here are not independent from each other.












He asked to pose so we can find him again.












The street side of the castle.




And a place to use a restroom if you're on the street.










For one day, I set up the spare monitor and used it to work on blog entries.












The outside of this bread molded. So, I cut the edges off...












Added milk...














And cut it up with egg.














"Fixins" for rice



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